Episode 203 –RV Water Heater Not Working? Start Here Before You Replace It

In staying on the road today, we're going to talk about water heaters not working and some simple tricks to try to test to do before you replace that water heater. And then the quick tips, we're going to talk about the toperg water gauge fittings. I got an update on that.

Remember last episode I talked about the water gauges themselves. And in RV Envy, if you're thinking about buying a new motorhome or pickup truck, beware of some of the tricks the manufacturers are playing.

So I'm Eric Stark. Welcome to the Smart rver podcast. If you'd rather be camping and then sitting in a repair shop, you're in the right place.

Every episode, I'm going to walk you through practical DIY maintenance and repairs that keep you on the road. So welcome back, Smart RVers.

We got some ground to cover today in episode number 203, and it's going to be great stuff, things that are practical and usable. Now, before we dig right into this, I want to just talk a minute about wholesale warranties.

I haven't brought them up in a while and I've had other things to talk about. Right.

So I just want to give you a reminder if you're thinking about buying a new rv, new used RV from a dealership, private party, check out wholesale warranties. There's a link to their website to give you a free quote in the description of this podcast. It's a great opportunity to see what they can do.

If you're thinking about getting an rv. Extended warranty. Extended warranties can be really good to have if you have the right one.

So check it out, use the link in the description and learn more about wholesale warranties. Now, in staying on the road, as I said, we are going to talk about RV water heaters.

Sometimes when an RV water heater quits working or has a little bit of a few problems, we might rush, jump the gun and decide, hey, let's just chuck this water heater and get a new one when really you might not need to. That might be going a little overboard, if you will. And I get it. Sometimes the water heater or something just is frustrating. You're annoyed.

I'm just gonna put in a new one.

Well, water heaters aren't that cheap, you know, I mean, guys you're looking at for a brand name from an RV store, you know, you're starting at maybe 700 bucks depending on on what you have. And the water heaters we're talking about today are your typical conventional water heaters. They're not on demand water heaters.

These are the ones like 6 gallon tanks, 10 gallon tanks, Atwood, Dometic, Suburban, which, those are the brands that are out there pretty much.

So we're gonna dig into this and you know, as an RV owner there's nothing worse than you go to take a shower after a long day and there's no hot water. You know, you turn that water on and you're waiting for it, you're waiting for it and it never comes. How frustrating is that? Right?

And that's where sometimes we think I'm chucking this sucker and I'm buying a brand new water heater. I'm done with it. But let's talk about the obvious things first. One of the questions that we ask. Well, let me back up a second here.

When we're getting into diagnosing something such as a water heater, we really want to take our time, diagnose it properly, don't just start buying parts. Watch out for those YouTube videos. Sometimes they send you down a road of, you know, because it's one guy's rv, he's not talking in broad terms.

This is what fixed my water heater. And I'm not knocking the YouTube videos. Sometimes they're very narrow minded. It's focused on one problem and not other problems.

And sometimes it's presented in such a way that will fix all the problems like replacing the circuit board. Well that's not true. Circuit board is not going to fix all the problems. So it's a step by step process.

So it takes a little bit of energy, a little extra time, maybe a voltmeter, you have to do a little digging, maybe get into the back of the water heater, the access panel from inside the rv. Sometimes water heaters aren't that easy to get to. So just keep those things in mind as you're going through the diagnosis problem.

You're going to have to take a little bit of time rather than just start chucking parts at it. So this is going to be a nine point breakdown here and little sub points in between.

So first off we want to make sure there's water in the water heater in the tank. Right. And that sounds crazy. Well, of course, I mean I'm not that dumb. Well, it happens. We just get rushed. We're doing things.

Maybe the RV just came out of winter and you haven't fully de winterized it yet, which would be filling that system, everything full of water. You turn on the water heater, nothing happens.

Now keep in mind if you turn on that water heater onto 110v and there's no water in the tank, it's going to burn that element up in just a short amount of time, minutes. It'll smoke that element and you have to replace that regardless. And sometimes after a winter, you're de winterizing.

If you don't set the bypass valve right, the tank won't get water in it when you pressurize it, whether it's city water or water pump. So make sure it's not still in bypass mode, understand how those valves work. And sometimes you can have water at a faucet, but not in the tank.

So don't let that confuse you. Make sure you got water in the tank. And if you open up a hot water faucet, you know, you want to get all that air out, purge the air.

Even once you get water in the tank, get all the air out of the system. And if you're not sure if you have water in the tank, you know, you could pull the drain plug. That's a pretty simple way.

Or you have the pressure relief valve. You can open that up, but open it up slowly. They have a lot of pressure in them or they can. And if there's hot water in there, it'll be scalding.

And of course, if there's hot water in there, you'd have water in the tank. But I'm just saying, keep that in mind.

Sometimes we get a little rambunctious, run ahead and start doing things, and next thing you know it's like, oops, that hurt. That's a problem. All right, so now we have to identify what type of problem you have. Obviously the hot water heater is not working.

You don't have water coming out of it that's hot, you know, and ready for that shower. So there's three simple little ways to break this down.

First off, if you have a propane and electric water heater, and that's kind of what we're going to be talking about today. So gas and electric propane and 110 volts. Most RVs have 110 volts with their propane water heater, although it's one water heater.

Now, older water heaters, maybe on thermocouple systems where you have a control valve and an actual physical thermocouple. We're not really talking about those today. We're talking about water heaters with direct spark ignition dsi.

So in other words, you don't need a match, you don't need a pilot light, you Just hit the switch inside and the water heater comes on. You hear it go. So we're not talking about the older ones that don't have electronic ignition.

And if your water heater doesn't have electric, but it has electronic ignition, you want to continue to listen. This is going to help. Well, you want to listen no matter what.

You know, you want to listen to this because the water, the gas and electric are two separate things on one appliance. So we have the propane side of the system. It could be as simple as the propane being turned off. Now also we have the electrical side.

So you have propane on 110v.

That could be as simple as if it's not hot on electric, that the circuit breaker is off or the water gets warm but not hot enough to take that nice shower. Right. That could be a mixing valve. So we're going to break that down a little bit more. Those are just basics.

Just kind of, you know, sometimes it's so simple, it's something like that. So we'll break them down a little bit more as we go along here and give you a little better idea of what the problem could be.

So let me explain this system here. You have propane and electric. So the propane side of the RV or the water heater runs on propane. Right? Just like it sounds like.

But it has to have 12 volts for it to work. 12 Volts goes to the water heater just to run the circuit board. Now, 12 volts is important.

So if your battery's not charged up, your water heater might not be working right. That can cause a problem. Same with your furnace. You got to have that 12 volts. Your refrigerator, the circuitry runs on that.

So make sure your battery is good. Okay? So that's the propane side. You got propane, but it has to have 12 volts and obviously you have to have propane.

And then you have the electric side, which is 110 volt. The water heater is one WAT heater. It just runs off 110 volts or propane. So they're two separate systems.

They really don't cross over into one system. So if it's not lighting on propane, that's one problem. If it's not heating on 110 volts, that's a problem on the 110 volt side.

You see where I'm going with this? It's two separate systems in one water heater. Now these water heaters sometimes can fool you because of that. It Looks like one appliance.

But can it really have two separate systems in it? Yes, it does. So you don't want to mix it up when you're troubleshooting. If it's not lighting on gas, don't look at the 110 volt side.

Like, start checking the heating element. You don't need to do that. All right, so let's get on to point number four here. So now it's the propane.

Now, if the propane isn't working, we're going to walk through some troubleshooting steps here. First one, another one of these questions. Is there propane in the tank? In other words, does your RV have propane in it?

And that sounds stupid, but quite often it happens or we forget to turn on the propane tank. Right. Are other propane appliances working like your water heater? I mean, your furnace or your stove? Typically, if they're lighting up, no problem.

Especially your furnace, you hear it putting out that heat, you're probably not going to have any issues with the propane regulator. I mean, you could, but more than likely you're not. It's going to be the water heater itself.

So if the other appliances work, you're probably good there. Now, did you recently run out of propane or swap the tanks? We're going to go back to those for a second.

And the reason why is sometimes when we change out tanks, if we open up those valves too quick, it throws the regulator off. And so if that happens, you have to close the valves, take the pressure out of the line. So you just crack it at the tank there.

You just open up that green nut and let the pressure out, tighten it back up and open up the tank. But do it slowly. Sometimes that will throw the regulator off and it won't work right. Or even the valve itself on the tank. So try that.

Now, does the water heater try to ignite? Do you hear. And if you hear that noise, is it the circuit board you're hearing? But can you visibly see the electrodes sparking?

So you're going to have to open up the door on the outside of the water heater and look in there. If the electrode is sparking, is it a nice blue spark? You know, solid spark looks like it's going to zap you.

If so, then that's giving you some direction there. See, if it's sparking and it's not lighting, it could very well be a propane issue that you're not getting propane to it.

So the circuit board could be not sending the signal to the gas valve or the power to the gas valve to open it up.

Now, in this case, when it's sparking and not lighting, some people will get a long lighter, and before they turn on the water heater, they'll put the lighter in there, have it lit, they'll have someone turn on the water heater. And then when it starts sparking, if there's, if the gas valve is working, it'll light. If it's not working, it won't light.

Okay, so it kind of helps you figure out, okay, the gas valves working. The gas valve is not working. I mean, we check it with voltmeters.

If you have voltage going to the gas valve during that ignition cycle, because remember, it's going to cycle, it's going to spark, stop for a few seconds, start sparking again, stop. So it's during that cycle.

And there's a reason why you do that just doesn't keep going because otherwise it'll blow up, build up too much propane in there and cause a little explosion. Hey, we don't want that, do we? No boom, boom in the RV today, or does it light? Does the water heater light and just turn off?

If so, that could be the electrode or the, or the flame sensor, which is part of the electrode. It lights for a few seconds, turns off, it's not sensing the flame. And these could be just dirty.

A dirty electrode, that could be part of the problem, why it's sparking but not really lighting, or why it's lighting but then going out. Everything could be dirty in there. It could have carbon buildup, which cleaning that with a wire brush solves that problem.

Another problem could be the burner tube has dirt in it. Cobwebs, a little bit of dust. I mean, you have to blow it out, clean it out.

And sometimes the orifice at the end of the burner tube can get little tiny specks of dirt in there. It doesn't take much, so you want to clean that out. You can use low pressure air hose. Air or air, don't run a drill through it or anything like that.

You can soak it in alcohol, something to clean it out, and you can hold it up to the light and make sure there's nothing in that little tiny hole. So that needs to be clean. So those are some basics there.

So basically, if the water heater is clicking, but it's not lighting, think fuel or ignition. If you hear that or if you don't hear anything, I should say if you don't hear any click, at all. Think fuel or ignition.

If you hear some clicking but it's still not lighting, think fuel or dirty. The valve or the electrodes could be dirty. If it lights then goes out. The flame sensor is probably bad.

The circuit board could be bad as well, but it's probably the flame sensor. If there's no click at all, you got to make sure you have 12 volts to the water heater.

So you want to check the fuse, make sure you have power going to the water heater. And it could possibly be a thermostat or eco has gone bad. Water on the water heaters are right in the front.

They're very obvious and those can actually be jumped to test those just for testing sake. Now here's a little note on safety. You can clean and inspect the water heater, but don't start guessing with propane.

You know, if you start smelling a lot of propane that isn't being burned, you know something's going on there. So you definitely don't want to throw your light in there.

If you smell all this propane, you know, I could just blow right up in your face, literally burn your eyebrows off. Look at one of them cartoon characters. We don't want that, right? That's no good. Okay, now there's the electric side of the water here.

So that was propane step number four. Now we're on step number five looking at the electric side. So the electric side is going to have a heating element in it.

And if the heating element goes bad, it's not going to heat the water. And the heating elements are the most common reason why RV water heaters stop working. They just go bad.

Sometimes you can pull the heating element out, which by the way, the pressure relief valve on the front of the tank relieve the pressure first before you pull that element out. That'll get pretty ugly. It'll just blow out at you and it can fail. And when you pull it out, it might not look like it's failed.

It can look good, but you can check it with an ohmmeter. You can test it that way. That makes it pretty simple.

Now if the water heater, as I said earlier, was turned on with no water in the tank on the 110 volt side, it can burn up that element. So keep that in mind. And now do you have 110 volts going to the water heater?

So if you don't, you want to check the circuit breaker, make sure the breaker is good and make sure the switch is on. And another thing, some suburban water Heaters. The switch is on the outside of the water heater. So it's not in the rv.

It's actually on the water heater. Some people don't even realize they have a 110 volt water heater because they've never noticed the switch. Yeah, it happens. So that's something too.

You might have 110 volts and never even knew it. So that's why it never worked. Right. That switch isn't on. So you check the switch and again make sure you have water in the tank.

Thinking about this, this is 120v or 110v, so be careful, you can get electrocuted. The heating element is the most common thing. Heating elements are pretty simple. Most Atwoods are the same. Most Dometics are the same.

Most suburbans are the same. You know, not collectively across the board, but all suburbans take the same heating element for the most part.

Most Dometics, most outwoods take the same. Now there's some variables there. So having your model number for the RV store to look it up is the best way to go.

Not even going by pictures on the Internet, just model numbers, the best. That way you get the right thing. Okay, now here's another trick. We're at step number six here.

So this isn't going to be as common of a problem, but if you have that water problem where it's not heating, it's just getting a little lukewarm. Maybe sometimes we might have turned on the outside shower. The knobs are on, but the shower head has been turned off. Okay, you got that?

So the shower head is off, but the knobs are on. So that could allow the water, the hot and cold, to mix. It becomes like a mixing valve. That's not a common thing. Okay.

There can also be a mixing valve on the back of the water heater that's gone bad or going bad and it's mixing the water too much cold with the hot or how you want to look at that. And even the showerhead in the rv, if the faucets on but the shower head is closed or turned off, that water could be mixing.

So when it's getting warm but not hot, it's generally a mixing problem. Maybe even part of your bypass system isn't set up right and it's mixing the water. So you want to check that it's generally not the water heater.

Especially if you hear it, you know, it's making that noise. Great water heater sound, right? Yeah.

I'm never going to get a job being A water heater, noise, sound maker thingy, majingy for TV shows or anything like that. So that would mean the water heater is working as long, you know, you hear it and you see it. All right, so there's something else going on there.

So you have to think outside the box sometimes on that. And some water heaters have check valves on them that can go bad or in the lines. So there's some variables there.

And keep in mind, not every RV water heater or RV has the same water heater. So what you have doesn't mean someone else has it. I mean there's, there's several brands but there's a lot of different models.

They all kind of work the same when it comes to conventional water heaters.

So I'm not saying that, you know, if someone has an Atwood, that problem might not be the same in a suburban, but it could be or similar, it'll get you in the right direction. If your buddy has an Atwood says this is what I checked, this is what I found, it might coincide with your suburban or vice versa.

So point number seven, it's, you know, there comes a time where you have to start buying some parts. Oh, and by the way, if you have an RV store near you and they're helpful, talk to them, explain the symptoms.

And that goes back into diagnosing the problem correctly, understanding what the water heater is doing. It's not just, well, I'm not sure if it comes on or not. That doesn't help anybody. Does it come on or not? Does it try to light or not?

That's what's going to help somebody else help you diagnose it. Otherwise you're probably going to buy parts because they're going to say, well, in their mind, I mean, thinking you're not a lot of help.

So I'm just going to tell you you need this part. Hopefully it works. So you want to be helpful. That sounds bad, doesn't it?

But this reality, when it's time to replace parts, make sure you're replacing the parts you need. So if the 110 volt side isn't working and you want to throw a heating element, go right ahead because that'll probably fix it.

Atwood's or the Atwood style dometic, it's wider than it is tall. Quite often the thermostat and eco fail in those when it's not working on propane. Now there's an anode rod.

In suburbans, the anode rod doesn't make the water heater Work or not work, it's just a rod that gets eaten by minerals and stuff like that so the tank doesn't get ruined. So that's not going to do it. A drain valve in an Atwood water heater, Atwood dometic style water heater is not going to be the problem.

It might be a leak, but that's not going to be why you don't have hot water. So the igniter could be bad, which is the flame sensor, the circuit board. You have the gas valve, you have the switch, and you have the tank.

You know, is the water heater tank actually leaking? Does it have a split in it after a long cold winter? Or is the bottom of it getting rotted out from stuff sitting down there eating away at it?

That happens especially on Atwoods. So making sure of where you're at in the water heater diagnosis chain is important.

So a leaking tank that's not anything to do with it, won't light or won't heat. That's just a leaking tank that's a problem in of itself. When the tank's bad, it's time to replace the water heater.

Some people will try to get them welded, which works, but sometimes the welds don't work for very long. You know, a bad thermostat, a failed heating element, pretty basic things. But it doesn't mean the water heaters junk. Right.

That's what kind of we're going at here. A rusty burner tube can be replaced, A bad connection can be repaired.

Now if a water heater is 30 years old and it's just having problems, it might be time to just replace it, just to do it, get ahead of it so it doesn't fail on you, you know, when you're out camping. But typically they last a long time until the tank just fails. All right, so this is one of these things. We don't have to keep 150 parts on hand.

You know, if you have an Atwood water heater, I definitely keep some drain plugs or the new dometics with the drain caps. I'd keep an extra one of those or an extra pair. In the rv you probably already have teflon tape or a thread sealant.

So in case you do have to do some basic things to the water heater, maybe a seals leaking on the back of the tank. And you want to have the tools to do that, a multimeter, you should already have screwdrivers, stuff like that. Basic tools to work on a water heater.

Water heaters don't need complex Tools to replace and a small little wire brush round is good, but you might need a couple to clean the burner tube depending if you take everything out or do it while it's still in the water heater. But being able to brush off those electrodes, clean them off really good is good. And you could carry a spare Eco and thermostat.

If you have an Atwood, I would recommend it. But not a Suburban. They don't fail as often on Suburbans.

And of course, if you have the owner's manual, which you can download from the manufacturer's website and have a picture of the model number handy in case you have to go into town and buy some parts from the local store.

So one of the best things you can do is take a picture of that model number of the water heater, which is everything in your RV should be have a picture of it. Any with a model number. That way, you know, and you're saving time. So now don't just go out and replace the water heater.

We're at the last point here. So we're coming to the end of this section. Think about what's wrong. Is that the propane side or the 110 volt side?

Is it a heating element versus maybe an electrode is bad? Is a circuit board bad? And by the way, the most common problems on water heaters, the heating element is number one on the 110 volt.

And I would say on the propane not working, it's either the electrode or the circuit board. Unless it's an Atwood, then the Eco and thermostat. So Suburban will be electrode and circuit board.

And circuit boards, you know, they don't just fail every day. And most stores can check a circuit board too. Most of them have the tester to do that. Like we do it and we do it for free.

So if you're in our area, you bring in the circuit board, we can test it. You don't bring in the rv, you bring in the circuit board.

Okay, so most of these problems in a RV water heater situation can be solved not by guessing, but actually by diagnosing. And you might come in to the point or get to the point where you're like, I'm pretty sure it's this. Well, pretty sure is pretty good.

If you talk to the guy at the store, if you call me, we can walk through it. And when I say walk through it, I mean that's talking about it, not why you're putting me on speakerphone while you're working on Your rv?

Not that, but I can walk you through it over the phone. That way you're not just throwing money away at stuff that you don't need to throw money away at. Right.

I mean, there's a lot of other expensive things in the world or in our lives that need attention. All right, so that's it on the RV water heaters.

Now I'm going to have this information on our website, the smartrver.com, so you'll be able to check that out as well. Now that brings us to quick tips. And this is going to be quick. So last episode 202, I talked about the topergy water gauges.

And one thing I didn't mention because I didn't catch it and I thought that, I thought the problem was already solved and it wasn't. Well, it's not a problem. The flow meter they provide has a BP or no BSPP thread on it. So it's a British standard pipe parallel type thing.

So we didn't have the adapters for it. In fact, we didn't have the gauges that time. These gauges take a little longer to get because they're coming from Australia. So we will have them.

We probably already have them out. This episode's coming out. You know, these episodes are published or we record them, you know, in advance.

But anyway, I'm just letting you know that the fitting issue is resolved. If it's come up, if you tried to order, if you've called us about it, that's resolved. We have it all figured out. It was my mistake, my bad.

So it is now under control. All right. And we'll have an update on the website as well. All right, So I hope that makes sense.

If you bought one of these gauges or you're looking at, you're like, how am I going to connect this? There's something missing here. Well, we got it figured out. Sorry about that, guys. All right, now that brings us to RV envy.

Now, like I said, if you're buying a new motorhome or pickup truck, be aware of what's going on in the automotive industry and the RVs, you know, motorhome, you might think, well, it's not going to be affected like a consumer, you know, like a pickup truck, you just go in and buy a pickup truck. So if you buy a motorhome on a Ford or GM truck chassis or van chassis, you know, like a Class C, this can affect you.

Or if you're buying a new truck or even the larger motorhomes, you know, we had A customer in just the other day and he was looking for a connector to go to his for his brake controller. He wanted to have a tow a vehicle or a tow dolly with electric brakes. So he wanted a brake controller in the plug on the Ford.

I don't know about that, but it is a different plug and it's in such a position that sometimes they're very hard to cut off and just hardwire the brake controller in, which is what he's going to do because he can't find the plug anywhere. So the point with that is they're making it difficult for you, the consumer, to get things done.

And you know, most shops aren't going to really blink at that. They just want to, you just want to make sure that it's going to work after you put in the brake controller.

And that leads me to what's happening now. A lot of new vehicles are not consumer friendly when it comes to maintenance, especially do it yourself type stuff.

Some vehicles have hoods that there's no access to. You can't open it up because there's nothing to check. There's no dipsticks to check the fluids.

It's all controlled by the manufacturer who allows the dealerships to look at it. Some cars you have to buy a subscription maybe to get your brakes done. Hey, that sounds crazy, right?

But a certified technician at a dealership is going to have to do it. And you're going to pay extra for a brake job on a new GM truck.

This is what's happening in the automotive industry and it's going to affect you. If you buy a Class C or a super C motorhome, even a Class A, you're not going to be able to do certain things.

Some cars today, you can't even jump start them. Some cars today, it's like, you know, the subscriptions, the Nissan Leaf, they've cut off functionality on Leafs that are over three years old.

The solution is to buy a new Leaf. That's what Nissan is saying, so these things are happening. It's real world stuff.

So, you know, subscriptions now and Mercedes, BMW, all these guys, like with their key fobs are a thousand bucks and they gotta be programmed. If your car fails and you try to put in a new battery, maybe it might have to be reprogrammed. These are dealership things. Everything's designed now.

When there's a problem, you tow it to the dealership and they take care of it at their, you know, totally unreasonable. Reasonable. Unreasonable. What are their price? Unreasonable prices? Yeah, unreasonable because they're over the top, expensive.

And not all dealerships, you know, we're talking automotive dealerships, they don't always know what's going on either. It's a guessing game for them sometimes. But they have the technology to reprogram a car.

So mechanics are becoming computer techs now because of all the software in the cars. And keep think of, you know, think about like your phone, your tablet, if you have an Android, I say Androids, I'm pro iPhone.

Well, I think that's changing though. But they fail, they have problems, right? You get a glitch. Oh yeah, we knew about that glitch when you call up the company. Yeah, we knew about it.

And it affected a million Android devices or a million iPhones. They knew about the glitch. So these things are happening in real life. I'm only saying this just so you're aware.

When you go to the dealership, you got to ask questions, okay, what's it going to cost to get these brakes done down the road? If this handle breaks on my door panel, am I going to have to buy a new door panel and can I install it or do you have to do it?

If my battery goes dead, can I jump start it? And I'd have them show you this stuff, prove it to you. Don't just take their word because the salesman.

I'm sorry if there's any salesman out there, but. Oh yeah, don't worry about it. They just wanted to get you in the financing office. So you buy that thing and you move on.

And if you go to YouTube and you watch some of the videos out there and there's a billion of them, believe me, I don't watch them all, but. But I'm connected to the RV or the automotive industry in some ways.

I have friends that work at dealerships, general managers, mechanics, guys that are electronic geniuses when it comes to general motor products. So I have connections there. So I'm not just getting all this off YouTube. This is real life stuff. All right, guys, it's up to you.

You decide what you want to do. If you're going to buy a new vehicle and even a car. If you're thinking about buying a new car for the family, just consider these things.

Unless it doesn't matter to you if you want to be at the mercy of the dealership every step of the way. And hey, so be it. Spend the money and pay the price. I remember hearing something years ago that said, what was it? You will own nothing and be happy.

That's what it's coming down to. All right, so now as a final reminder, let's go back to wholesale warranty. So don't forget to check out the link.

If you're thinking of buying a new RV or a used RV and you want to get that extended warranty, wholesale warranties can take care of you. That take care of you on that. Whether it's a dealership purchase or private party, new or used wholesale warranty is your place.

There'll be a description in the podcast link here or descript or a link in the podcast subscription. All right, everybody, so that's going to take us to the end of the show today.

Next episode is going to be 204 and I'm going to talk about water leaks and I'm probably going to do a couple episodes on water leaks in different ways. Ways, but it's water related. Right now we're getting in the springtime or summertime things are popping up.

So I just want to make sure we cover that and you guys are good on the road and no water issues and if one comes up, you know how to take care of it. All right, so that's going to do it for today's episode of the Smart rver podcast. Thanks for listening.

I'm Eric Stark and if you'd rather be camping than sitting in a repair shop, your in the right place. Until the next time, take care of the little things and enjoy the trip.