RV Weight and Balancing it

Feature Tip: Four-Corner Weigh

The Four-Corner Weigh-In

How accurate RV weights + smarter speed save fuel, tires, and repair bills

Why “close enough” weight guesses cost you money

Most owners air up the tires to a round number, set the cruise to 68–72 mph, and hope for the best. The RV four-corner weigh tells you the real load on each wheel. That lets you set PSI from the manufacturer’s RV tire load chart, even out-of-side-to-side cargo, and then derate your cruising speed to the sweet spot where heat, rolling resistance, and fuel burn all drop. The result: tangible fuel savings, cooler tires, smoother handling, and far fewer roadside dramas.

What you can save:

  • Fuel: Typically 6–12% by pairing correct PSI with a 5–8 mph speed reduction.
  • Tires & damage avoidance: A single prevented blowout can avoid $300–$1,000+ in rubber, wheel well damage, wiring, trim, and downtime.
  • Brakes, bearings, and suspension: Cooler, happier components last longer (soft savings, real money).

Step-by-step: The Four-Corner Weigh-In Method

  1. RV Four Corner Weigh InWeigh all four corners (or both duals on each axle).
    • Best: Mobile RV rallies/shops with individual scale pads.
    • Backup: A three-pass CAT scale (left/right bias estimated). If you must estimate, add a 10% safety margin to the heavier side.
  2. Find the tire manufacturer’s load/pressure chart for your exact size and load range.
    • Match the heaviest corner on that axle to the minimum PSI that supports it.
    • Add a small operational buffer (often +5 PSI) for temp swings and gauge variance—but never exceed wheel or valve-stem ratings.
  3. Rebalance RV WeightRebalance your cargo.
    • Move tools, water, batteries, and bulky gear toward the lighter side.
    • Even 40–80 lb shifted across the aisle can reduce scrub, sway, and shoulder wear.
  4. Derate your highway speed.
    • Lock in a cruise around 60–63 mph (or the speed where your engine runs lowest BSFC in top gear).
    • Heat drops, rolling resistance falls, and your tires live a longer, quieter life.
      Lower Speed For Fuel Economy
  5. RV Four-Corner WeighRecord and re-check.
    • Make a windshield card: “Front: __ PSI | Rear: __ PSI | Max Cruise: 63 mph | Next Weigh Date: __”
    • Re-weigh after big changes (full water, new tools, bikes, solar batteries, etc.).

Quick math: what 6–12% fuel savings looks like

  • Trip: 5,000 miles
  • Current: 9 mpg, fuel $3.75/gal → 556 gallons = $2,085
  • After weigh-in + speed derate: 9.6–10.1 mpg → 490–521 gallons = $1,838–$1,955
  • Savings: $130–$247 this trip alone, plus tire life and fewer emergencies.

Pro details most people miss

  • Motorhome PSI is axle-specific. You can (and often should) run different pressures front vs. rear. Trailers are Tire Size Specific.
  • Duals care about match. If you run duals, keep tire circumference and PSI closely matched to avoid overloading one side.
  • Temperature matters. Check cold PSI at roughly the same morning temp; expect ~1–2 PSI change per 10°F.
  • Valve stems & wheels have ratings. Don’t push PSI beyond the wheel or stem spec—upgrade if needed.
  • TPMS is a tool, not a plan. It warns you after things heat up. Correct corner weights prevent the heat in the first place.

Common mistakes (and easy fixes)

  • Guessing PSI from a forum postFix: Always use the exact RV tire load chart for your tire brand/size/load range.
  • Inflating to sidewall max as a cure-allFix: Sidewall max is a limit, not a goal. Aim for chart-derived PSI + small buffer.
  • Trailer tires should always be at Max Tire Pressure.
  • Ignoring side-to-side biasFix: Move heavy items toward the light side; re-weigh.
  • Driving 70+ to “make time”Fix: A steady 62–63 often arrives within minutes of a faster run once you add fuel and stop time—and it saves cash.

The 20-minute driveway routine (between official weigh-ins)

  1. Air to your last chart-based PSI.
  2. Use a quality digital gauge; verify with a second gauge quarterly.
  3. Do a slow walk-around: tread/shoulders even? caps tight? valve stems intact?
  4. Check torque on lugs per schedule.
  5. Confirm your Max Cruise reminder on the dash.

Safety and legality

  • Never exceed GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) or GVWR.
  • If the four-corner weigh pushes you close to limits, shed cargo or consider higher-capacity tires/wheels only within axle and wheel ratings.
  • For propane, avoid prolonged high-heat runs; speed derating helps keep that front bay cooler, too.

Conclusion for The Smart RVer

“Today’s Money Saving Tip is the Four-Corner Weigh-In. Weigh each wheel, set PSI from your tire’s load chart, rebalance that cargo, and then cap your cruise around sixty-two. Most RVers see 6–12% better fuel economy, cooler tires, and far fewer blowouts. We’ll help you pick the right gauge, TPMS, and valve stems so your next trip is safer and cheaper.”

Yes. Do a three-pass CAT scale (left tires off the pads, then right) to estimate side bias. Add ~10% margin to the heavier side when setting PSI until you can get true corner weights.

Not always. Over-inflation for your actual load reduces the contact patch and can increase stopping distance and center wear. Use the RV tire load chart for your tire, then add a small buffer.

Many rigs see the best balance of time vs. money around 60–63 mph. If traffic is 75+, stay in the right lane with professional spacing. Safety first.

 No—set cold PSI in the morning. Tires are designed to gain pressure as they warm. Chasing hot PSI numbers leads to under-inflation.

Yes. Balanced loads + correct PSI reduce wander, sway, and braking drama. Your suspension will thank you.